This week’s restaurant was established in Chiang Mai 8
years ago, so is no new kid on the block. There is always a tendency,
therefore, to forget that the time-honoured restaurants are still there,
while sampling the latest eatery that Chiang Mai has to offer. It was with
that in mind that the Dining Out Team went to ‘rediscover’ one of the
cornerstones of fine dining in Chiang Mai.
There is a long story behind the somewhat long name, but
you really are ‘chez’ John in this place. John is from the French
speaking side of Switzerland, and is everywhere, from the front of the house
to the kitchen. Ubiquitous would be the best adjective, making his presence
and character felt. This is an ‘individual’ restaurant, and John is that
individual.
The building is set back from the road, but there is a
brightly lit sign at the entrance from Airport Road. The atmosphere is
Mediterranean, with the tiled floor, wrought iron furniture and tables and
brick alcoves all down one side. A large free standing wine cellar is near
the entrance, suitably pad-locked. Spotless white linen tablecloths and
bright red linen napkins all add to the effect. The cutlery is also a unique
style of wrought polished stainless steel. And in case you forget the name
of the restaurant, there are chickens everywhere (coq) - glass, pottery,
paintings - you cannot escape!
The menu starts with cold and hot appetizers ranging in
price from 120 baht for the tomato stuffed with tuna, to 380 baht for the
Parma ham. Salads and soups are up next (B. 60-180) with a choice of five
salads and nine soups, including the delightful sounding prawn soup with
Pernod.
There is a page of seafood choices (B. 195-480) with a
red snapper fillet with Rosemary cream sauce at the lower end through to a
king prawn with ginger cream sauce. Poultry is next (B. 180-380) with
chicken, duck, quail and Guinea fowl on offer. The next section covers
fondues (very Swiss), including meat, seafood and cheese, with most around
600 baht for two people.
Fourteen choices of meat dishes follow (B. 165-320) for
items as pork scallop Viennese style to lamb stew and then (B. 400-850) for
imported items like US T-bone or rack of lamb.
There is also a page of desserts and then an extensive
wine list going from house wine at 240 baht a carafe to 15,000 baht for a
Chateau Latour (and now you can see why his wine cellar is locked)!
We began with some crusty French bread and John’s own
terrine which was excellent. At John’s suggestion (insistence?) we tried
his forest mushrooms on toast which was just superb. If it is not on the
menu - ask for it!
We then tried a very hearty (and healthy) vegetable soup
which was served hot to the table - something that is so important and so
often forgotten.
For our main courses we decided to sample the Fondue.
What a wonderfully ‘social’ way to eat! John’s choice of five sauces
that came with it were sufficiently diverse to have something for every
palate, with my favourite being the curried mayonnaise, while Madame liked
the one based on the hotter Sri Racha sauce.
We allowed ourselves to be talked into a mocha ice cake
dessert and then liqueurs and espresso coffee, with John rejoining us to
celebrate one of the team’s birthdays with a glass of Chardonnay (also
French and non-wooded).
The Dining Out Team enjoyed our evening at Coq au Rico
Chez John Restaurant. The standard of the fare was excellent, and John
obviously relishes the opportunity to interact with the customers. He was
interesting, his cooking was interesting and the cuisine was also
interesting. This is no ordinary restaurant, so the prices are not
‘ordinary’ either - though I must say they are not over the top. If you
have not eaten there, go on a special occasion. If you have eaten there
before, go and reacquaint yourself with one of Chiang Mai’s better
restaurants. Highly recommended.
Coq au Rico Chez John Restaurant, 18/1 Airport Road, Chiang Mai,
telephone 053 201 551.