There is one fact that is central to dining out in Chiang
Mai. If restaurateurs stand still they are actually going backwards! New ideas,
new menus, new concepts, new d้cor - without these changes you will
certainly slowly slip out of the collective (un)consciousness of the everyday
diner.
The Food and Beverage manager at the Novotel, Charun
Khamdoung, is a young ambitious man and understands these principles, and
invited the Dining Out Team to come and sample the new Mediterranean menu at
their Citrus restaurant on the ground floor of the hotel.
Part of the shift towards a Mediterranean cuisine came with
the new French Chef Marcel, who has been with the Novotel for two months, this
also being his first visit to Thailand (although he has a Thai wife he met in
Paris). “I change everything,” said Marcel, while Khun Charun said, “I
want the Novotel to be the showcase hotel in Chiang Mai.”
The venue is pleasant, with yellow ochre pastel walls and
wood accents. There are stand-alone table settings as well as alcove/booths
around one wall. The live cooking station on display is novel (Novotel?) and I
enjoyed seeing Marcel hard at work.
The menu is in English, French and Thai and begins with
appetizers (B. 220-320) and includes a Lebanese Falafel and a Seared swordfish
balls on a taboulleh salad timbale (and no swordfish jokes, thank you)!
Soups follow (B. 180-220) and include the obligatory French
onion. Pasta and Pizzas are next, generally around B. 280 for main course size
(you can also order the pastas as appetizers). These were again slanted towards
the Mediterranean countries with some interesting combinations, such as Low-fat
caramelized red onion pizza or a Smoked duck and portabella mushroom pizza.
Mains (B. 480-890) continue the Mediterranean theme with a
Cypriot-style chicken moussaka with Greek salad and a Marseilles bouillabaisse
for example and a Grilled new york sirloin, aligot potatoes and cabernet
sauvignon sauce at the top end.
Desserts (B. 180-220) include Frozen chocolate and banana
Napoleon with honey syrup. I did mention that Marcel is French!
The wine list is extensive, without being expensive. Both the
new and old worlds are represented, with most bottles between B. 1,500-2,000. As
a boon to the diners who are not into drinking entire bottles of wine, the house
varieties by the glass include white, red, rose and sparkling. A good idea that
others should follow.
We began with the Lebanese Falafel with yellow bell pepper
(capsicum) aioli, which presented a very pleasing contrast between the cream
sauce and the more sharp taste of the bell pepper.
This was followed by an Italian style seafood soup. Excellent
taste and full of the fisherman’s catch from the sea. A strong full-bodied
soup, that Madame was ready to order again, she enjoyed it so much!
Since this was an opportunity for tasting, Khun Charun
arranged for us to also try the bouillabaisse, which was presented with a
wonderful garlic bread. We also tried the risotto and the braised lamb shank
with oven-roasted provencale vegetables
There was no doubting chef Marcel’s wide experience in the
cuisines of the Mediterranean region. I particularly enjoyed the Lebanese
falafel with yellow bell pepper aioli, while Madame’s favorite was the
Mediterranean style seafood soup, which was very Italian in its taste.
The venue is relaxed and quiet and large enough to get away
from other diners, a small but important fact. When you go out to dinner you do
not want to be part of the next table’s anecdotes!
The Citrus restaurant under Khun Charun and chef Marcel is
another alternative for those diners who would like something just a little
different. I think that with these two men working together, the Citrus at the
Novotel Chiang Mai could see a revival. By the way, as it is a hotel, the prices
are subject to a 10 percent service charge plus applicable VAT.
Citrus restaurant, Novotel Chiang Mai, 183 Changpuak Road,
Muang District, Chiang Mai, telephone 053 225 500, fax 053 225 505, email
novotelcnx@cmnet.co.th. Open seven days, 6 a.m. until 10.30 a.m. breakfast,
flowed by buffet lunch, then dinner 6 p.m. until 11 p.m. Secure parking within
hotel grounds.
