Le Coq d’Or: By Neil Robinson
A strong contender for the title of best European
style restaurant in Chiang Mai
where I sat, at a table in the corner of the conservatory at
Le Coq d’Or, I could look down the length of the “glass
rooms”, (as the restaurant calls them), where around sixty
people were dining. The view, encompassing rows of tables
spread with white linen, numerous wine glasses of different
shapes and sizes sparkling in the light from candles and a
row of lanterns hanging from the ornate roof of the
conservatory, all reflected in the glass of the walls and
roof, made me think about the theatrical aspects of eating.
I have eaten all sorts of cuisines in all sorts of
restaurants, but I have never yet seen anything to compare
as a theatrical experience with the ritual of a formal
European style multi-course meal. I am not talking here
about comparing it with something deliberately done for
show, with conjurers or acrobats maybe, but just the normal
way of serving. For that, such a formal meal has no peer.
There are the numerous knives, forks and spoons of different
sizes and shapes, framing the plates, and complementing the
array of elegantly shaped wine glasses. There are the
immaculate table cloths, almost reaching the floor. The
uniformed waiters and waitresses serve small portions on
huge plates, frequently removed and replaced with another
small, but elegant morsel. Meanwhile, other waiters tender
wines of differing hues and tints to go with the different
flavours, as course succeeds course.
Le Coq d’Or performs this ritual immaculately. Their English
country house setting and elegant conservatory with its
ornate framework are the perfect stage. Of course, this
would be all for nothing if the food did not live up to the
mark. I have eaten in Le Coq d’Or before, and have much
enjoyed the food. This time I was here to review the seven
course dinner they put on in aid of the Hillside Rooftop
Charity on May 20. The cost of the meal with a variety of
wines was 2,100 baht. By the standards of Coq d’Or, this was
a real bargain - such a meal at regular menu prices would be
considerably more. Not surprisingly, the event was sold out.
Before the meal, we were offered wine and canapes. I tried
only the smoked salmon ones (smoked salmon is one of my
favourite foods), which were delicious. The meal itself
started with an amuse bouche, to awaken the taste buds,
which was a tiny portion of quiche. This was followed by
mushroom strudel. The mushrooms, wrapped in paper thin
pastry, and with a savoury gravy, had an excellent flavour
and a good, slightly firm texture. Then came chicken
consomme, with a delicate chicken flavour, and just a little
spiciness for interest. A refreshing, fruity sherbet was
next, to prepare us for the main course.
For main course, there was a choice of chateaubriand, with
bearnaise sauce, or grilled mountain trout, with a lemon and
caper sauce. I chose the chateaubriand, but my neighbour let
me sample his trout. Excellent though my steak was, I rather
wished that I had chosen the trout, for the fine, clear
flavour of the grilled fish. Dessert was a tender, sweet
poached pear and vanilla ice cream, served with a delicious
vanilla sauce with slivered almonds. Finally, for those who
still had any space, the meal concluded with coffee, tea and
Overall, a delightful meal. Chiang Mai is blessed with an
extraordinary number of good restaurants, with the result
that there are quite a number of contenders for best
European style restaurant in Chiang Mai. I have tried many,
but not all, so that I cannot be sure that Le Coq d’Or is
the best. I can simply say it is the best such restaurant
that I have eaten in.
The address is 11 Soi 2, Koh Klang Rd., Chiang Mai 50000.
Tel: 053 282 024. Their website (with a confusing map) is
www. lecoqdorchiangmai.com. I’d like to hear from you on
your experience of this restaurant. Please contact me at:
cmmrev @live.com. Next week will be back to Khao Soi, and
the announcement of a new leader in the race to find the
best in Chiang Mai!
Korean BBQ restaurants are very popular all
over the world, but you can have a Korean BBQ just as well at home. The conical
shaped BBQ plate is the traditional way to do this, but the more usual western
BBQ plate works fine. The important factors are slicing the meat thinly and
allowing enough time to absorb the flavors from the marinade. Finally, do not
overcook the meat.
Cut the beef and chicken into thin bite-sized slices (5x2.5
cm) and dry with absorbent paper.
In a dish, mix the soy sauces, spring onion, garlic, ginger pepper and sesame
oil then place the meats in the mixture and leave for around 15-30 minutes to
Heat the BBQ plate and brush with sunflower oil and quickly cook the meat for
about one minute each side and serve immediately on a warmed plate.
Beef sliced and pounded thin 300 gm
Chicken breast pounded thin 300 gm
Dark soy sauce
Light soy sauce
Spring onion finely chopped
Grated ginger root
Ground black pepper
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