I am not sure how long this traditional trattoria has been
going in Chiang Mai (or whether it was ever on another site)
but it must be well into double figures and was probably the
first to be run by the amiable singing owner, Stefano. He
went on to other ventures, notably La Gondola on the river
which was many peoples’ favorite Italian restaurant but
Pulcinella has always been with us and long may it remain
so.
It is popular with many residents,
although the central location (just across the square from
Thapae Gate) naturally makes it equally a homing ground for
tourists, many of whom pass it on the way to those other
great Chiang Mai landmarks, Gecko Books and the incomparable
Back Street Books. Pulcinella does not boast much of a fa็ade
and these days it might be criticised for being slightly old
fashioned in d้cor, even a little tired. But that is also
half its charm, since it is unpretentious and inexpensive
and I know that many people, especially if eating alone,
prefer it to trendier venues.
If
you fancy something a little fancier and with a garden go
down ‘walking street’ – the other direction from Thapae Gate
and on the left, sandwiched between Wa Wee coffee and the
excellent Hot Chilli Thai restaurant you will find Stefano’s
Il Girasole, which features much the same classic Italian
menu, boasts a pizza oven so if anything the pizzas have the
edge on the excellent ones at Pulcinella and also features a
range of vegetarian options. But the original place has a
cosier atmosphere and importantly has special offers for set
meals and inexpensive main courses.
The bruschetta are especially attractive,
with fresh tasting tomato and more than a hint of garlic.
The wide range of pizza start at around 140 baht and they,
like the pastas, are home made. One of the best of these is
the gnocchi, with ricotta cheese and asparagus, if you don’t
find that dish too heavy. Portions are generous here too and
they serve delicious home made bread and good crepes, filled
with spinach and covered with a rich tomato sauce and topped
with cheese gratin.
Make sure you save room for one of the
puddings. The ice cream, also said to be home made is some
of the best in town and good value at 40 baht a scoop. It
may not be as good as that at Gianni di Burchio but comes in
at around half the price. The service here is efficient but
do remember that Sundays means lots of strolling visitors to
the market and walking street and they head to both here and
Il Girasole, so another day will give you quicker service.
They also open for lunch.
There are plenty of wines on offer and
the house wine is perfectly acceptable. The drinks menu is
extensive and the whole range of Italian food, soups,
seafood salad (240 baht), pastas – including good cannelloni
and ravioli – is available, along with a selection of
‘fancier’ dishes such as red snapper in various sauces and
some meat dishes, including veal, which is not something
many people would choose to eat. Expect to pay around 300
baht a head, but this is purely a guide. You can easily eat
more cheaply and certainly more expensively, depending on
the range of choices and drinks. But this was always and
remains a strictly middle of the road, very honest eating
place. There are no airs and graces on show here but freshly
prepared food at sensible prices, with experienced staff and
a comfortable and quite colourful setting. If you are in the
area this is certainly worth checking out and I am sure it
will be a restaurant you will return to. Open daily from
11.30 until 22.30, you will find Pulcinella at 2/1-2 Chang
Moi, Kao Road. Tel: 053 874 189.
